Most common garden pests
The most common garden pests and how to fight them
Oh, garden pests, how much we do not like to find them all over our plants! We work so hard to plant and maintain our little vegetable plants and then they destroy all of our hard work. Here is the good news though. Most of these pests have been around for decades, and there are tried and true ways to get rid of them from your vegetables.
This list compiles the most common garden pests and natural non-chemical methods of dealing with them. For new and experienced gardeners, this information is essential and your plants will mature in a season with good health and excellent productivity. The key to effectively fighting pests and minimizing damage to your plants should be to be effective. Do not wait until errors appear. Investigate which pests are common in your area and then prepare yourself. If Colorado beetles are a regular visitor to the gardens where you live, you can expect to see them too. No reason to get caught. We can all hope that this year pests will avoid our garden, but seriously, it is unlikely to happen at any time.
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Garden pests and how to fight them
Aphids
First, on the list, these little bugs are everywhere and are the ones that cause trouble in a common garden. Aphids are young pear-shaped bugs that suck sap from leaves and stems. As if that weren’t enough, they expel the sweet, sticky honey substance that attracts ants and promotes fungal diseases. Aphids transmit diseases to plants during feeding. This is bad news!
Symptoms of aphid infestation: Sticky nectar at the base of the leaves, withered leaves, yellow leaves, or black mite fungal residue.
Treatment: Use a natural pesticide such as a basic insecticide, which uses a simple soapy water solution to get rid of the plants. If that does not work, upgrade to strong-acting neem oil. Also, encourage natural predators such as lacewings, ladybugs, and aphid midges.
Cabbage Maggot
Adults are small gray-brown flies, but the larvae are the biggest problem. Mature females lay their eggs on the roots of cabbage and other brass plants, including broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower. The larvae then burrow themselves into the roots of your vegetable plants, causing the plants to die.
Symptoms of Cabbage Moth Infection: The larvae are so small and about 1/3 ”long that it is almost impossible to see them. The first signs of the problem are leaf wilting and stunted growth in these plants.
Treatment: Cover the young cabbage plants with rows of cards (this will vary depending on where you live) until the end of the spawning season, so the flies cannot go to the roots to lay eggs. If you find flies all around, look for their eggs at the base of your brass plants. Destroy any eggs you find. Place the radish as a trap near the cabbage plants. Worms like radish and eat it instead of your cabbage. You have to pull the radishes up and destroy them when they start to die. It is good to encourage roe beetles because they are incredible at cleaning cabbage moths.
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Colorado potato beetle
Do not be fooled; These pests will not only eat your potato plants. Colorado potato beetles fully enjoy all nightshade plants, including tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. They eat the leaves, causing stunted and poor growth, and often destroying young plants. This tough body beetle is shaped like a female insect but has black and yellow stripes on its back. Finding them with these labels is so easy because there is only one! Colorado potato beetles lay more than 500 eggs in females in 5 weeks, and they take only 2-3 weeks to mature. Their rapidly growing ability is one reason why this is such a problem for gardeners. You need to catch these pests as soon as possible!
Symptoms of Colorado beetle infestation: deciduous plants, leaves with tons of holes, and complete parts of the leaves are gone. Additionally, you can find them throughout your plants. They are not difficult to detect or identify.
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Treatment: These rabid beetles have long been known to destroy crops around the world. Many pesticides have been used to combat them, and as a result, beetles are now immune to some of them. The use of pesticides should be a last resort. If you find some, inspect all your plants because there will be more. Take them by hand and soak them in soapy water. Check for eggs under the leaves and wipe them off as well. If they get out of hand, as they often do, handpicking can be tiring. You will get buckets of them in a few hours! The best offense with these is a good defense. Promote beneficial insects such as ground beetles and soldier beetles. Also, the use of neem oil works wonders. Be sure to put wool or plant covers over the sprayed plants so the neem does not hurt the bees or butterflies. The best way to deal with Colorado potato beetles is to plan for them. They are everywhere, so you can reasonably assume that you will see them in your garden. Adults spend the winter in the soil, waiting for next year's crop. Do not plant potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, or peppers in the same place every year. Implement methods that are not up to date as it will increase the number of beneficial insects. Benefits stay in the soil and when it is plowed, people are destroyed.
Cutworms
Nocturnal moth larvae and mites live up to their name. These pests cut the stems and roots of plants. They cut the stems of young plants properly and cause damage to the hard stems of older plants. Insects look like groups and are often confused with Japanese beetle larvae. They are both bad, so do not delay dealing with both! Cutworms come out at dusk, so patrol the garden at dusk to make sure you have them in your garden.
Symptoms of an Insect Attack: Plant stems that are chewed at the base. Shrinking dying plants. Plants with compromised stems will die even if they look completely fine from above.
Treatment: Create plant collars around the stems to prevent nematodes from reaching the young seedlings and shoots. Many people use cardboard paper tubes for this because they are almost the right size. Cut 4 "tall pieces from the tube and place them tightly around the ground, around the stems. Placing collars around each seedling is not really possible or fun for large gardens, but there are other useful methods. , So it is better to encourage these natural predators in your garden. Is insecticide spray does not work well to fight them as the mites are mainly in the soil?
| Vegetable | Garden Tips 1 | Garden Tips 2 |
|---|---|---|
| Vegetable Garden | Vegetable | Tomato Garden |
| Container Garden | Garden Ideas | Garden Tips |
| Indoor Plants | Repal Plants | Weed Control Tips |
Flea beetles
There are dozens of species of flea beetles, but they all work the same way. Flea beetles feed on the leaves of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, cabbage, radish, tomato, eggplant, and pepper. Adult flea beetles spend the winter in wooded areas or piles of brushes, waking up in the spring to feed on the leaves, leaving hundreds of tiny holes in the leaves. Later, they lay their eggs on the roots of vegetable plants. The larvae then feed on the roots. While the damage they cause rarely kills mature plants, they can also transmit a bacterial disease to plants, which is the biggest threat.
Symptoms of flea beetle attack: Small circular holes in leaves. Adults are small, black, and jump like a flea when disturbed.
Treatment: Sprinkle the leaves with talcum powder or use 1 cup alcohol, 2.5 cups water, and 1 teaspoon non-toxic liquid dish soap.
Japanese beetles
Although they are a great pain in the garden, Japanese beetles are very beautiful. They have metallic blue-green tiles with bronze wings and really stand out. Their luxury is a plus as you can easily find out if they are in your garden. Unfortunately, if you look at Japanese beetles, you have a big problem. These pests are most common in gardens east of the Mississippi, and their extinction is intense. Adult Japanese beetles feed on green foliage and remove entire leaves and flowers. When they do, their larvae feed on plant roots. These insect pests are a double nuisance!
Signs of Japanese Beetle Infection: The leaves of skeletal plants, and adults can be seen eating your plants.
Treatment: If you find adult Japanese beetles, select them from plants. To protect soft or young plants, use row covers. The best way to combat Japanese beetles is to deal with them at the larval stage. Removal of larvae refers to juveniles that cope with the season. Japanese Beetle Insect Nolan Insects Treat Soil Living Bacteria With Bacteria. Milk thistle is a safe, natural bacterium that only kills Japanese beetles. It stays in the ground for up to 10 years and is very effective in controlling and removing populations of Japanese beetles.
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