How to direct - sow seeds outdoors

Sowing the seeds in the vegetable garden

Most vegetables start directly from seeds sown in the garden. This is often called "direct seeding" or "direct seeding". In this article, we will talk about which vegetables are sown directly as seeds in the garden (planted against the alternative). In addition, we will provide some tips and tricks for sowing seeds so that they can survive and grow.

Starting your own vegetable garden

When growing vegetables at home, you have two options to start your garden: you can start growing vegetables from seed (indoors or outdoors in the garden) or buy small starter plants (called "transplants") from a local start center. Many gardeners use a combination of these techniques in their vegetable gardens each year.

Which method is better? It depends. Many vegetables prefer to be planted directly in the ground and will not grow if they are transplanted or disturbed. In this article, we will focus on sowing seeds and vegetables that are sown directly in the ground. See our separate articles on Seed Transplantation and Getting Started for more information on those topics.

Vegetables were sown directly into the garden as seeds: Some are considered "winter" vegetables, they need winter to germinate, others are "warm season" vegetables, the soil must be warm enough to germinate and not tolerate frost. Here is a useful list:

Cold-season vegetables

“Cold season” vegetables have seeds that germinate in cold soil. They are often planted in the spring (maturing before the weather warms up) and in the summer (maturing in the cold of autumn). Below is a list of vegetables that you want to sow directly in the soil (not transplanted):

Very hard (can be planted 4 to 6 weeks before the average last frost date)

Collars

Endeavor

Fava beans

Kale

Kohlrabi

Leagues

Lettuce

Onions

Peas

Rutabagas

Lettuce

Turnips

Hardy (can be planted 2 to 3 weeks before the average last frost date)

Beat

Carrots

Chart

Mustard

Parsley

Radish

Warm-season vegetables

In the "warm season," vegetables grow best in hot climates and the seeds germinate only if the soil is warm enough. If sown too soon, the seeds will rot in the ground. Late spring frosts will kill them like the first autumn frost. Below is a list of vegetables that you want to sow directly in the soil (not transplanted):

Tender (0 to 2 weeks after frost; tolerates cold even if killed by injury or frost)

Snap beans

Dry beans

New Zealand lettuce

Summer squash

Sweet corn

Warm-loving (2 to 4 weeks after frost; kills immediately by frost and does not tolerate cold weather)

Cucumber seeds (including cucumbers, musk, watermelon, pumpkin, summer squash, winter squash, and pumpkin) require very warm soil, at least 60 ° F. Seeds may rot if soil temperature is below 60 F.

Cucumbers

chickpeas

Lima Beans

Melon

Okra

Pumpkins

Soybeans

Winter squash

Yardlong beans

Before sowing the seeds

It goes without saying (but we will say it again), you can not scatter the seeds in the ground and expect all the plants to grow! Like humans, plants need the right environment, nutrients, and water. Here are some things to keep in mind before sowing seeds:

Know your planting dates. Before you start planting, know when each vegetable should be planted. See our planting calendar for the best dates for planting, based on frost dates.

Have a plan. Know where each vegetable goes. For example, consider which vegetables need shade and which vegetables are taller so they do not give shade to shorter plants. Also, plant so that you can easily reach the center of the row or bed enough to weed, water and harvest. Provide permanent beds for perennial crops such as rhubarb, asparagus, and some herbs. Remember, based on the maturity of the vegetable days (in the seed pocket), you can plant cold season crops in the same place as warm-season crops later in the season. Try our Garden Planner to successfully plan your garden.

Prepare the soil. Your seeds need fertile, fertile soil to grow. In the spring work the soil with organic matter and dig about 1 foot to loosen the soil. Alternatively, do as many gardeners do and add organic matter in the fall so that the sub Requires little work during this time. See our page on how to prepare the soil for planting.

Remove weeds. Before you sow the seeds, the place should be free of weeds! Otherwise, weeds are competing for water and nutrients.

Use fertilizer. In the spring - just before planting - apply fertilizer to the soil. Soil testing can help diagnose soil deficiencies. Learn more about applying fertilizer to your garden.

Use quality seeds. The seeds have a shelf life, and you can often escape using old seeds, be prepared for lower germination rates. Use fresh seeds from a reputable company for best results. See our list of famous seeds. Also, if you store your own seeds, do not protect the seeds from hype

Remove the plants. Most hybrid plants may not be “true” to their parent type, so you may end up with a completely different (and disappointing) fruit or flower. See also about storing vegetable seeds.

Starts indoors. For slow-growing vegetables from seed, try starting the seeds at home several weeks before planting dates. Vegetables that grow slowly from seed and are suitable for starting indoors: tomatoes, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, and pepper. See our article on how to start seeds indoors.

Preparation of warm-season crops. Before planting warm-season crops, the soil can be heated with a variety of techniques, especially cucurbits, such as making soil or mounds and/or using black plastic. To create a hill, a mound of soil 8 to 10 inches high to form a low, wide hill. Place as much black plastic as possible on the soil surface in the spring. Cut a hole in the plastic where you want a plant to be; Plastic keeps the soil warm and suppresses weeds around the plant. Learn more about soil warming.

Protect seedlings from frost. If you are planting in early spring, be prepared to insulate young seedlings from cold weather - from close-up to row rows. See how to protect seedlings.

How to sow the seeds

Sowing seeds is easy, but there are some tips and tricks to make it easier, including:

Sow at the right depth. Generally, plant the seeds at a depth of twice as deep as the seeds, not too deep. However, see Seed Packet for this information. Some seeds need to be pressed only on the surface of the soil because they need more light to germinate. At two or three times the depth of the seeds, drill individual holes for the seeds or make a groove. You can use a pencil to punch holes if you want!

Focus on seed spacing. You can plant lettuce, radish, carrot and other small seeds densely, and then thin them out at regular intervals when the seedlings are small. Since not all seeds germinate in general, plan to sow some extra seeds.

If you are a beginner plant in limited rows; Do not scatter widely. It is easy to reduce weeds between rows and identify seedlings from weeds. (Weeds usually do not grow in rows!) Often, the rows are spaced a foot apart, but check your seed packet for specifics. See our useful page on vegetable seedling identification.

Firm the soil as soon as the seeds are sown. This ensures good contact between the seed and the soil.

Gently water the fresh seeds! Do not turn the tube at full strength and make them explode or you will wash those seeds or move them together. Use a soft, gentle mist to moisten the soil or let the water pipe gently move around the area.

Prevent soil erosion. Weak seedlings (such as carrots) may struggle to break the soil surface if a hard crust forms. After covering the seeds with soil, add a thin layer of mulch or compost. When you plant, you can mix in germinating seeds (like radish) quickly, which will break the crust and allow the weaker seeds to grow.

"Mountain" winery plants. When sowing large grape plants such as squash, melon, and cucumber directly, they should be planted on a hill. Each hill should be spaced 4 to 8 feet apart. Plant 4 to 6 seeds in a circle at 5-inch intervals on each hill. Seedlings are thin when they have 2 or 3 leaves. Remove everything except 2 to 3 large, healthy, well-spaced plants per hill. More than 3 plants per hill will lead to crowding, a higher chance of disease, and lower yields.

Mark the place where you lost your row of vegetables; It is so easy to forget, especially when you are trying to differentiate seedlings and weeds! Use a popsicle stick to label rows or anything that suits you!

Maintenance of seeds and seedlings

Once the seeds are sown, they need to be maintained!

Keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate. It is important to water the seeds. Do not let the soil dry out; Seedlings do not have a good root system and dry out within a few hours, especially if it is well ventilated. Use drip irrigation or place the hose at ground level and gently soak the planting area with water. Learn more about when to water vegetables.

Seedlings should be thinned at regular intervals when they are one or two inches high. Do not be afraid to lose weight! If you do not, your plants will not have the space and nutrients to grow and may not be together.

Protect seedlings. Some insects also prefer those delicate seedlings. If you have pests or insects, there are various techniques to protect your seedlings, including nets, row cards, and small plant collars. Look at how to be in front of garden pests.

Provide foundation and support for crossbars such as poles or cages. For example, cucumbers need vertical supports to produce straight (curved or false) fruit. No winnings or expansive planting supports like melon or polar beans are required. Tomatoes need support or cages for their heavy fruits.

Dorsal legs plants. Many vegetables and especially herbs - benefit from “pinch” after growing 3 sets of true leaves. Pinching involves pruning the surface of the plant back to its next leaf. This will encourage more branches so that your plant will grow more compact, without getting bare feet.

Continue until your seedlings become established plants!