organic pest control For Aphids

  organic pest control garden - Organic aphid control: 9 ways to eliminate aphids

Aphids are one of the most common (and frustrating!) Pests in the garden. Every gardener I know sometimes struggles with aphids. They can cause tricky little bugs and more damage, especially if large populations are out of control. Unfortunately, aphids are attracted to different types of plants. The good news, though, is that aphids are one of the easiest pests to stop! There are many ways to get rid of aphids quickly in an organic garden, and it makes your plants look better.

Before we dive into ways to get rid of aphids in the garden, let’s get a brief overview of these annoying little bunkers. Also, please note that an organic garden is not perfect. We always have some aphids hanging around. The goal is to have reasonable control over their population, not to eradicate it altogether. After all, they serve as a food source for some of the most beneficial wildlife in your area!

What are aphids 

Aphids are small, soft-bodied, sap-sucking insects. There are thousands of species of aphids that are found all over the world. However, aphids are more common and more common in temperate climates like ours. Aphids are usually pear-shaped and come in a wide variety of colors. Depending on their species and food source, aphids can be gray, green, white, yellow, black, or red. Some woolly aphids have a furry appearance. We saw all of the above in our garden!

Young nymph aphids appear as small "spots" on your plants. As adult aphids mature, their legs become more visible and they become more mobile. Most aphid species do not have wings, although adult aphids can grow wings in crowds to increase their ability to travel to new food sources!

Which plants attract aphids?

Aphids feed on a wide variety of plants and are particularly attracted to new growth. They can affect everything from ornamental shrubs and fruit trees to various vegetable crops. As for vegetables, they seem to favor the brazika family, including kale, collard greens, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and cabbage. In our garden, aphids are highly attracted to milkweed, Swiss chart, carrot greens, citrus tree leaves, and leafy greens such as lettuce or spinach. We didn’t grow roses, but I heard they could be a real problem there too.

Different types of aphids invade different plants! For example, you can find yellow aphids in our dairy, gray aphids in the brazier, black aphids on the Swiss chart and nasturtium, green aphids on our citrus, and lettuce, and woolly aphids on our apple tree.

How aphids damage plants

Aphids settle on their chosen host plant, forming clusters and reproducing rapidly. Like other sap-sucking insects, aphids burrow into the leaves and stems of plants and absorb the sap, nutrients, and moisture in their mouths. Early damage is often aesthetic and localized, with yellowing and/or shrinking of the leaves. However, overpopulation of aphids can lead to depression, malnutrition, stunted growth, and, in severe cases, death of the affected plant. The younger the plant, the more likely it is to sustain damage. Some types of aphids inject a toxin into the plant when chewed, and cause leaf curl, discoloration, and growth problems.

In addition to absorbing plant tissues, aphids also release a sticky, gooey secretion called honey. Because aphids coat the surface of the plant leaves, there is a high risk of needle mold formation. Mouse mold is a common term for many types of fungi that grow in bees. The mold itself does not technically "affect" the plants, but can prevent photosynthesis in heavily coated leaves. Mouse print on valuable ornamental plants such as rose bushes is considered undesirable and invisible.

Last but not least, the bee that leaves aphids attracts the attention of other pests and insects. In particular, ants prefer aphid bees. Ants do not attract (or harm) garden plants, so if you find a lot of ant activity in your plants, this is a good indicator that an aphid attack is underway! In fact, ants love aphid bees so much that they actually “farm” aphids. The ants gather around, protect the aphid colony and host plant, and take care of the aphids physically to increase bee production - effectively "milking" the aphids! Crazy, isn't it?

Selecting an Organic Aphid Control System

As you can see, aphids suck - really! Now, let’s look in-depth at the many ways to prevent, kill or get rid of aphids. As you read the options below, you may ask yourself - but which trick should I try? It depends on the severity of the problem, what sources you have, and personal preference. Minor infections can be easily managed by hand, with your garden hose or preventative measures. On the other hand, you may want to call for soap or neem oil if the problem persists.

You also need to consider the type of plant. For example, I do not like to spray neem oil directly on the cooking area of ​​plants such as leafy greens or the head of broccoli. Although neem is organic and safe, it has a tendency to leave a non-oily residue that is easy to wash off. Yet it works well as the common foliage of squash plants, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamentals, and more! With time and experimentation, you will find out which methods are best for you and your garden.

1) Inspect your plants regularly

Become an Insect Inventor! One of the best ways to control aphids organically is to catch them early. Then, all the other methods we discuss today will be exponentially easier and more effective. Your plants will then grow back with little to no harmful effects.

Make it a part of your garden routine to regularly inspect your plants (e.g. weekly), which I recommend managing all types of garden pests - not just aphids! Inspect the base of the leaves and the soft areas of the center where the new growth will be. For example, I often find aphids in the middle of a cabbage plant, on a sprouting broccoli head, or in other tight and protected areas.

Train your eyes to recognize the signs of aphid damage before you see aphids. Look at the photo below; I saw the unusually shattered part of that broccoli leaf from 10 feet away! Low and lo and behold, aphids appear in clusters, beneath which, invisibly feed. I immediately smashed them.

2) Squeeze & Remove (Brown)

When you see a small bunch of aphids, the quickest and easiest way to get rid of them is to crush them by hand. Gently pinch, crush and wipe off the leaf or stem that does not have aphids. I do it all the time! Now, this method may not be optimal for the bitter, but it certainly prevents them - right away. Since the remains of dead crushed aphid bodies are very sticky, I like to pipe that area into the water after slaughter.

Another simple way to quickly remove aphids is to cut the affected area (if possible). If the aphid population has accumulated on a few leaves, a tree can live without a small branch or other essential section of the plant, prune it and remove it from your garden. When it comes to things like cabbage or tomatoes, make sure you do not prune the terminal bud - usually the primary growth tip at the top/middle of the plant. If you cut it, the plant will stop growing.

3) Spray with water

This is another method we use to remove aphids, often in conjunction with the squish method. Simply hit the Aphid Colony if you pour good water from your garden hose! (Do not spray hard enough to damage your plant.) A firm stream does many things: First, it physically removes aphids from your plants. Two, the eruption of water pressure can actually kill the impact on the soft body aphids. Three, water helps to remove stagnant honey.

4) Homemade Soap Spray (or Insecticide Soap)

One of the few "sprays" we use in our organic garden is homemade soap spray. There are also many pre-made organic pesticide soaps, but they also include a set of other ingredients. Alternatively, you can make your own simple and clean DIY soap spray using two ingredients: soap and water. Pure cast soap is the best choice for soap spraying and when used properly it will not harm your plants. We use Dr. Broner's Castle Soap. Since peppermint also prevents pests, this peppermint Dr. Bronner's soap provides more protection.

Soap sprays work to disrupt their cell membrane and kill aphids. Basically, it coats their natural protective barrier and penetrates, leaving them to dry - or dry out. Insect soap spray has a little-to-no residual effect. It only kills by direct contact, so spray it on the target insects. Turn or peel off the curled leaves needed to reach the aphids. Soap spray can be effective in controlling soft-bodied insects such as mealybugs, spiders, whiteflies, syphilis, and scale. However, the soap is not harmful to beneficial insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, or bees, nor is it effective against caterpillars.

To create your own homemade insect soap spray, simply add 1 teaspoon of liquid soap to a quart of water. For a larger volume, use 5 to 6 tablespoons per gallon of water. Using warm water, mix well in your sprayer. To learn more, I recommend reading our article about DIY Soap Spray before using it in your garden. Although mild, there is a risk of burning your plants in the sun if misused or at the wrong time of day!

5) Encourage beneficial insects to eat aphids

Use bugs to fight bugs! Some insects are not desirable around our plants (I see you, aphids) while others we welcome with open arms. Ladybugs, Green Lacewings, and Branding Panties are wonderful natural predators of aphids and other small soft-bodied insects. As they are adequate, beneficial insects will definitely be of great help in controlling organic aphids in your area.

Ladyboxes are especially fierce predators of aphids. According to the Planet Nature Research Center, a ladybug can eat up to 50 aphids a day. That means in its lifetime, a ladybug is capable of consuming 5,000 aphids! In the early stages of their lives, ladybug larvae can be very effective in controlling aphid populations. Yet ladybug larvae differ significantly from their adult form (see photos below). So, make sure you know how to identify these good guys in the garden and don’t mistake them for pests!

While not at the same incredible rate that Ladybox does, green lacewings absorb aphids instantly. On average green larvae can ingest 200 aphids (or other prey) per week.

To increase the population, many gardeners are buying and releasing beneficial pests. We release ladybugs in our garden every year, but now we have enough natural population that we don’t need. If you go this route, you are buying Native American Ladybox, make sure the aggression is not Asian female beetles! Here is the reliable source for the perfect ladybug, and here is the best source for green lacing.

Tips for Releasing Lady bugs

Here are some tips to make sure they stick to your lady box when you publish them. They have a reputation for flying!

When they arrive, store the Ladybox in the refrigerator until that evening. It slows down their metabolism and function but is completely safe.

Release the ladybugs that evening after sunset.

Moisten the plants well before you place them first.

Be sure to release them near the food source, e.g. Aphids.

If you order a large quantity, place them in different places throughout your garden.

Some may still fly, but if you follow these tricks, a lot will stick! After we free ourselves, they may not have accumulated in the area we originally owned, but we certainly notice an increase in the Ladybug population around our garden in general. If you can get new larvae by sticking to them for a long time after laying eggs, the feast will really start! Also, don’t be alarmed if there are some dead ladybugs in the container you purchased. It will happen.

Other ways to promote beneficial pests in your garden include maintaining it organically, using sub-planting, and cultivating a variety.

6) Companion planting and polyculture

Growing a variety of plants creates biodiversity in your garden. It is a way to maintain balance and also attracts more beneficial insects. In addition, diversity and multiculturalism - the term for mixing different types of plants in one place - reduce the chances of widespread extinction by insects attracted to the same crop. It would not be a good idea to plant a whole garden bed full of material, broccoli, and kale. It sounds like an aphid straw to me!

I highly recommend planting supplementary plants with your pest-infested crops. For example, put spices like onion, garlic, leeks, cadmium, marigold, dill, fennel, and/or coriander around your other garden vegetables - all of which prevent aphids! By planting onions around and in the middle of the chart I keep the Swiss chart plants naturally aphid-free (usually aphid-magnets).

On the other hand, some ancillary plants can serve as a “trap crop” and attract aphids - while at the same time attracting them from your vegetables! Nasturtium is a great example. Aphids absolutely love nasturtium. However, make sure to remove the affected trap crop plants from time to time to prevent aphid infestation in your garden. Or, manually remove aphids from trap crops and kill them.

For more information on supplemental planting additives and natural pesticides, be sure to subscribe to our weekly newsletter to receive the free Garden Project Toolkit! A detailed sub-planting chart is included in the kit.

7) Neem oil spray

If you’ve been around the garden block, you’ve definitely heard of neem oil. It is a plant-based concentrated oil extracted from the seeds of the Neem tree in India. Neem oil is especially effective against small soft-bodied insects such as aphids, thrips, spider mites, mealybugs, scale, and whiteflies. The oil coats their bodies and suppresses them - or interferes with reproduction and diet. Like soap spray, neem oil kills aphids when sprayed directly on them.

The active ingredient in neem oil (Azadirachtin) is a common insect repellent. Therefore, regular treatment of plants may first prevent aphid infestation or prevent it from returning immediately. On the other hand, neem oil is not toxic to bees when used properly. Other beneficial insects such as ladybugs, earthworms, parasitic wasps, spiders, or adult butterflies are also not adversely affected by neem - especially if they are not sprayed directly!

"Neem Oil" can be found sold as 100% pure neem oil, concentrated neem oil with other ingredients, or as a pre-mixed, ready-to-use spray. Personally, we like to use this 100% pure organic cold-pressed neem oil and like to mix our own spray. It is very inexpensive and safe. Also, a pre-mixed neem oil product line was recently found to be contaminated with several bad labeled pesticides including malathion, chlorpyrifos, and permethrin! Ugly.

Overall, neem oil can be an excellent non-toxic, and effective product for controlling aphids organically — when used properly! See this detailed article for more information on how to properly mix and use neem oil.

8) Plant purple and red varieties

Did you know that red and purple vegetables are less susceptible to pests? They sure are! Annually, the purple cauliflower, purple cabbage, and red cabbage in our garden are significantly less damaged by aphids and cabbage worms than their green counterparts. A reasonable theory is that insects do not mix as easily with green as purple vegetables as brightly as possible. That would make them an easy target for hunters.

Also, studies show that anthocyanins (a flavonoid-rich in antioxidants that make red, purple, and blue pigment vegetables so good for us!) Actually show mild toxicity to some insects. It can even prevent large insects like squirrels! So, one way to control aphids is to select and plant organic red and purple vegetables.

9) Rings & Rows

One ultimate organic aphid control method is to physically block their access to plants. Individual plants raised beds or parts thereof are covered with row cards. Also known as "floating row cards", their purpose is to block plants or protect them from undesirable elements. Some line cards are designed to stop pests, while others are used for shade or frost protection.

I deliberately put this option at the bottom of the list. We absolutely love using rings and line cards for organic pest control in our garden. However, because aphids are so small, rings and row cards are not always 100% efficient at putting out those tiny absorbers. If you cover the young plants early and use the right row of cards fitted tightly around the edges, they may definitely help. Read all about using garden rings and sequencing cards here, including details on the various rings and cover material options.