Gravel Path in Soil
Before starting any work, mark the proposed path with string or marking paint in a straight or curved shape. Live with it for a while to make sure you've chosen the best position, and watch the effect from an upstairs window. Gravel must be kept in place or it will start to look sloppy. Simple wooden gravel boards can overcome this, nailed with wooden pegs at one meter intervals, but decorative edging is functional and attractive.
1. Mark the path
Use a length of pipe to secure a position. If the path runs close to the house, ensure that it is at least 16cm below the level of the wet-proof course. Leave a gap of at least 23 cm between the walls and the track to prevent the walls from getting wet during heavy rain. If the path is curved, choose a shorter length of edge for a smoother look.
2. Dig a marginal trench
The depth of the trench depends on the soil, the height of the edge and the 'upstand' - the difference in height between the top of the edge and the path. Compact the foundation with the head of a rake. A concrete foundation is laid at the bottom of the trench at a depth of about 10 cm. Smooth with a trowel and check the levels.
3. Bed on edge
Once the concrete is set, fix a string line to guide the top of the edges. Set a second line to guide the front edge. Spread a layer of mortar to lay the curb stones. Allow about 3mm to 4mm space between each. Cover with plastic sheet to protect from rain or to keep from drying out too quickly.
4. Edging
Wait a day or so for the mortar to set, then 'haunch' the concrete or support the edge. It is carried behind the curb stones up to two-thirds of the height. Use your trowel to slope the concrete away from the edge to facilitate drainage. Later, once the soil is reclaimed, the hansing will be covered.
5. Remove the floor and soil
Allow the edges to dry sufficiently before tackling the track. Remove grass and soil to a depth of 10cm to 15cm; Depth depends on soil condition. You may be lucky enough to find remnants of an earlier trail. Remove grass and all vegetation otherwise it will rot and cause unevenness in future.
6. Compact the soil
For narrow paths, firm the soil using the head of a rake or a sturdy piece of wood. Use a garden roller or rent a vibrating plate for larger paths. If the subsoil is soft, add a few inches of hardcore or scalping stone to compact it again. Level with gravel to prevent hardcore from working on the surface as the ground settles.
7. Add a weed membrane
Lay down a piece of discarded carpet or a layer of permeable membrane that allows rain to pass through but separates the gravel from the soil below. It will also help keep the path free of weeds. Rake the stones occasionally to keep the path smooth and prevent colonization.
8. Distribute the gravel
Gravel and decorative aggregates come in a variety of colors, from buff to pink and gray. Keep existing landscaping colors in mind when choosing. Smaller packages are proportionally better in smaller lanes. Spread the gravel evenly over the foil to a depth of 2-3 cm with a rake.
9. Choose aggregate or gravel
Gravel and decorative materials are available from builder's merchants and garden centres. Although a small quality 'pea shingle' or 10mm gravel looks good, it will encourage cats to use the litter tray. Allow 40 kg of gravel per square meter.
Loose gravel is always cheaper than resin-bonded gravel, which has epoxy binders added to it. Avoid gravel that says 'glue bonded' and is not permeable; Always select 'adhesive bandage'. Alternatively, choose self-binding gravel that has not been stripped of sand and dust and therefore binds together, creating a firmer path.
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